Written By:Matt Freeman,Owner, The Olde Fashioned Paint Co.
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Most homeowners understand that a superior paint job begins with quality and thorough surface preparation. What they may not understand, however, is that the primer used can be the most significant component to that prep work. As a professional painter I believe it to be of utmost importance to continuously educate myself on the types of primers available. Paint and
hardware stores stock shelves with new and improved primers almost as often as Motorola updates the Droid. It is critical as a professional to know what is available, and what works, in order to provide the most durable and lasting finish possible.
When determining which of the countless primers to use, it is imperative to consider the type of surface you are working with. Universal primers that claim to bond with a variety of surface types are available, however I prefer to use primers made specifically for the type of surface I’m working with at the moment. For example, in preparing a metal surface for paint, many painters and/or homeowners may choose to use one of these Universal primers, however I will always use a Direct to Metal (DTM) product. This type of primer is almost always more expensive, but knowing I won’t have to worry about paint failure makes it well worth the additional cost.
Many paint manufacturers now advertise “Paint and Primer” (P&P) products that offer complete coverage in a single coat. Beware of these claims. These products have limited capabilities, and if you read the instructions carefully you will find that most suggest using a separate primer before applying the “P&P” product. I frequently use P&P type paints because they provide such a nice top coat, however I almost always use a traditional primer as a base cover in order to avoid flashing, particularly if the walls have been repaired in any way.
As I mentioned previously, it’s important to choose the best primer for the project at hand. Semi-gloss and glossy surfaces such as interior trim work can be extremely difficult for paint to adhere to. If you are covering an oil-based surface with a latex paint, a coat of bonding primer will always be necessary. If you are applying an oil-based paint, however, you can probably skip the primer coat and lightly sand the surface instead. Semi-gloss and glossy latex paint surfaces do not necessarily need to be primed before repainting, however a light sanding is recommended prior to the paint application. If you are not certain whether the surface is painted with an oil or latex product, you can test it by applying denatured alcohol to a rag and
rubbing a small area. If paint appears on the rag, you know a latex paint has been used. If the rag is clean, however, it’s safe to
assume you are working with an oil-based surface.
For masonry surfaces, such as brick, block, cement, stucco, and synthetic stucco, I always recommend a specialty primer or P&P intended specifically for these types of mediums. Unfortunately, many painters and home builders neglect to include a
primer coat, and then use standard exterior house paint rather than the appropriate masonry paint. This shortcut can save hundreds and even thousands of dollars, as house paint is far less expensive; one gallon covers three to four times more surface area than a masonry primer or paint. The cost to properly cover masonry surfaces with the specialty products recommended here can be quite high, however, you can be certain that the finish will last many more years than with the exterior house paint.
My advice to homeowners is to always talk to your contractors about the primers they use, and also discuss your projects with the paint professionals at Benjamin Moore/Northside Decorating in Roswell, GA. The folks at Northside Decorating will always
recommend the best primers and paints for your project. My advice to contractors is to stay educated on what’s available in the marketplace and understand the pros and cons of any new product to hit the shelves. Doing so makes for a happy client and a more robust bottom line.
